Built for the 1940 Games, this architectural masterpiece hosted the event 12 years later, when it had already become the home ground of the Finnish national side. The Olympic Stadium also hosts prestigious pre-season friendlies, such as the game between Celtic and Spurs in 2014, and Arsenal’s win over Manchester City in 2013, attracting a full house of 39,000.
Before 1938, the national stadium was the Töölön Pallokenttä, in the same verdant sports complex. This was also the home of HIFK, a club equally as venerable, if not as decorated, as HJK. Both football clubs were founded in 1907.
Before their promotion in 2014, Tähtirinnat (‘Star-Chested’) hadn’t played in the top flight since 1972. No wonder, then, that the long-awaited derby of April 2015 between HJK (‘Klubi’) and HIFK attracted a five-figure crowd at the Sonera Stadium. Set next to the Olympic Stadium, the Sonera was used by both Helsinki clubs in 2015 – and was again in 2016. Renamed the Telia 5G-areena before the start of the 2017 season, the ground is ideally located off Mannerheimintie, the broad avenue that runs from Helsinki’s main station, past parliament, the National Museum and the National Opera.
Traditionally, Helsinki has a Big Four, the other two clubs being KIF (or FC Kiffen 08), thrice early winners of the Finnish championship; and HPS, eight times champions in the 1920s and 1930s. Both are now in the lower reaches of the Finnish league pyramid.
The only other side from the capital worthy of mention are FC Viikingit, based in east Helsinki, at the modest ground of Vuosaaren urheilukenttä. Formed in 1965, the Vikings made the top flight for one season only, in 2007, but fell back down to the second-division Ykkönen.
In 2014, the Vikings sank down one more level to the third-flight Kakkonen, on a par with local rivals Kiffen.
Helsinki Airport is 17km (10.5 miles) north of the city. A rail link with Helsinki should be in place by 2015. Until then, bus No.615 runs from terminal 1 (stop 2) and terminal 2 (stop 21) to Rautatientori, the main square containing the metro station of the same name, and Central Station. Journey time is around 35min, a regional ticket €5. Buses leave every 15min daytime, every 30 evenings. From Rautatientori, the bus leaves from stop 3.
Public transport consists of buses, trams, a metro, trains and ferries. A single ticket is €2.50 from a machine, €3 on board. A day pass is €8, two-day €12.
There’s only one lodging in the Olympic Stadium complex, and that’s the Stadion Hostel, which also offers single and twin rooms from €56 to budget travellers.
On the main avenue of Mannerheimintie, halfway between town and the stadiums, the business-friendly Crowne Plaza offers high-spending visitors a health club and day spa.
Also in the upscale bracket, conveniently located around Central Station, are the Holiday Inn Helsinki City Centre, close to the Sport Pub Chelsea, and the Radisson Blu Plaza, with a gym and relaxing, in-room massages. Partner hotel the Radisson Blu Royal is slap in the city centre.
Helsinki is full of bars. A local beer, say Lapin Kulta, is around €6, an imported one €8, with plenty of variety. Note that some places operate an over-20 admission policy.
Sports bars also abound. Beside Central Station, the Sport Pub Chelsea offers two giant screens, nine plasma TVs and Brit beers such as draught London Pride, and Boddingtons and Spitfire in bottles.
Across from Central Station, the two-floor Sports Academy can accommodate 1,000 customers to gawp at action on 70-plus screens, including six giant ones – there’s a sauna, too. Decorate focus is on ice hockey.
Set in a corner of the third floor of the Forum shopping centre, 37-screen O’Leary’s is the Helsinki branch of this Scandinavian chain. Hulking hamburgers a speciality.
Look out for the reopening of the ELMO Bar, the best-loved sports bar in the city.