Teams, tales and tips – a guide to the local game
Scotland’s third city of Aberdeen has a special place in the Scottish game. Flagship club Aberdeen FC, the last non-Old Firm team to win the title, can boast an unbroken run in the top flight since 1905.
Between 2015 and 2018, partly during Rangers’ absence, the Dons notched up four straight second spots, something that hadn’t happened since the early 1990s. Regular competitors in the Europa League, Aberdeen were also the last Scottish club to lift a European trophy, in 1983. This was achieved under Sir Alex Ferguson, in a golden era of three titles and four Scottish cups.
While the Dons have gone off the boil somewhat since, the club now has city rivals with realistic ambitions to become a credible force in the domestic game. South of the city centre, Cove Bay is the home of Cove Rangers, now playing at the new-build Balmoral Stadium.
The former Highland League side had been linked to a groundshare with the Dons but financial backing from a huge global concern with roots in Aberdeen’s oil industry knocked that idea into touch. As well as the support of Balmoral, Cove Rangers have friends in high places, such as former club president Alan McRae, now head of the Scottish FA. Even immediate relegation from the Championship in 2023, after three promotions in four seasons, shouldn’t stop them – this is a club that’s going places.
Around Aberdeen FC, meanwhile, swirl rumours of potential locations should the club eventually abandon Pittodrie, sell the land for real estate and move elsewhere.
The saga of where that elsewhere might be has gone on since 2008, the sites ranging from Nigg to Loirston to Balgownie to Kingsford and then back to… Aberdeen Beach, close to Pittodrie. Here, sports pitches range around the Linx Ice Arena, opened in 1992 and looking its age. With the project still in the discussion stage, a new Pittodrie before 2030 seems very doubtful indeed.
Behind the scenes at AFC, however, changes are afoot. Always near the top of the Scottish game, Aberdeen were run by building millionaire Stewart Milne from 1998 onwards. For much of the later years of his chairmanship, Milne had been looking to build a new arena near Cove Bay.
As that isn’t going to happen, and with Milne’s businesses in trouble, a new character entered the scene: Dave Cormack. A US-Scot with interests in software, Cormack oversaw the arrival in Aberdeen of Atlanta United, putting in place a cross-Atlantic alliance between the most popular outfit in Major League Soccer and a fading football power in Scotland.
What this means in real terms isn’t clear, but with the impressive rise of Hearts in recent years, on and off the pitch, has left Aberdeen trailing Edinburgh as Scotland’s key soccer hub after Glasgow. As chairman, Cormack now has to rebuild Aberdeen as a credible force behind Celtic and Rangers.
And yet the city has been responsible for kick-starting the careers of the two most illustrious figures in the history of the game north of the border. The only Scottish player to win the Ballon d’Or, Denis Law was born and bred in Aberdeen, a club he supported as a boy. Raised in grinding poverty in Woodside, north of the city centre, Law only played for clubs in England and Scotland but his statue still stands outside Aberdeen Sports Village, in the same recreation zone as Pittodrie, the latest site for its replacement and a links golf course.
And then there’s Sir Alex Ferguson, of course, who built his managerial reputation on his outstanding achievements at Aberdeen, his reward being nearly 30 years of unprecedented success at Manchester United, and taking Scotland to the World Cup in 1986. In its 124-year-old history, Pittodrie has never seen such success as with Alex Ferguson in charge, from 1978 to 1986, when Aberdeen broke the Old Firm’s stranglehold on the Scottish game.
Pittodrie has also hosted a number of full internationals, between 1900 and 2010, the most significant being the 1-0 win over Belgium. Not only was this a European qualifier, in front of 36,500, it marked the debut of Kenny Dalglish in a Scotland shirt, coming on as a late substitute.
The soccer heritage of the Granite City is not all European glory, however. Aberdeen was also the home of Bon Accord, whose infamous footnote in football history is as having been on the receiving end of a 36-0 pasting by Arbroath in 1885, a negative record that has stood the long, long test of time.
Even more bizarrely, that very same day, Aberdeen Rovers lost 35-0 to Dundee Harp, also in the Scottish Cup.
Both Aberdeen Rovers and Bon Accord have long vanished, though the club first lined up to play Arbroath on that fateful afternoon, Orion, were one of three later amalgamated to form Aberdeen FC in 1903. Bon Accord, in fact, met Aberdeen in the cup six years after 36-0, the original Aberdeen club who would soon merge with Orion and Victoria United.
These three clubs, Aberdeen, Orion and Victoria United, monopolised the Aberdeenshire Cup – competing against the likes of Aberdeen Athletic, Granite City and Aberdeen City Wanderers – until 1903.
After that, only the likes of Peterhead, Buckie Thistle and Fraserburgh got an occasional look-in – Aberdeen FC dominated the local game. The newly formed Aberdeen FC took over the Pittodrie (‘manure heap’ – its original use) Stadium from the original Aberdeen, who had been playing there since 1899.
Getting Around
Arriving in town, local transport and timings
Aberdeen Airport is 9km (six miles) north-west of town in the suburb of Dyce. The Jet Service 727 (£3.70 single, £6.70 return, pay on board, by card or cash, change given) operated by Stagecoach runs every 10-20mins to main Union Square (journey time 25mins) in town, location of Aberdeen’s train and bus stations. Heading to the airport from town, the bus sets off from the JET stance.
Airport-recommended Taxis (01224 466 229) charge around £20 for the 25min journey into the city. Alternatively, you can take a taxi to Dyce station (£8, 8mins) and get a train to Aberdeen from there.
A direct train to Aberdeen from Edinburgh takes 2hrs 30mins, advance singles £20. Glasgow is a little further and a couple of pounds more.
In town, Aberdeen Taxis (01224 200 200) also offers online booking and airport transfers. There are ranks close to Union Street, Aberdeen’s main thoroughfare.
The city centre is compact and easily navigated on foot, including Pittodrie Stadium. Local buses are run by Stagecoach (day passes £4) and First Bus (day passes £5.10).
Where to Drink
The best pubs and bars for football fans
Given the proximity of Pittodrie to Aberdeen’s compact city centre, most pubs and bars can be considered convenient pre- and post-match ones.
Modernisation of the harbour area has stripped away many of the watering holes traditionally used by travelling fans arriving at the city’s train stations. Luckily, there are still plenty of options nearby.
The Prince of Wales, tucked away on the cobbles of St Nicholas Lane, has been serving up real Scottish ales since opening in 1850. These days you can feast on mince and tatties in a TV-free environment.
Old Blackfriars on Castlegate is another traditional favourite that serves haggis and home-made Cullen skink soup. The bar also has its eponymous house ale on tap. No football colours allowed. Opposite, The Archibald Simpson, is a Wetherspoon pub named after the Aberdonian architect who designed this former bank building in the 1840s.
BrewDog on Gallowgate is the first venture and flagship for this rapidly growing Aberdeenshire craft brewer that offers nibbles with independent ales, stouts, IPAs and lagers. You’ll also find BrewDog outlets in Union Square, on Castlegate and Union Street.
For an out-and-out sports bar, Wilson’s on Market Street provides plenty of screens and cheap drinks to keep their regulars happy.
Where to stay
The best hotels for the grounds and around town
Visit Aberdeen has a hotel database.
Most lodgings are within an easy walk of the city centre, Pittodrie and the beach. Cove Rangers is way out of town, at an industrial estate, hotels there geared to business travellers.
Many major chains have a branch in Aberdeen, though three Hiltons have closed in recent years. The nearest to Pittodrie is now the budget-conscious Premier Inn Aberdeen City Centre, with its own restaurant.
For a mid-range city-centre hotel, The Rox has 32 rooms ranged over eight floors, and dining from lunches to afternoon teas. Next door, the basic Wilson’s sports bar shows games in lively surroundings.
Conveniently located near the station, the 203-room Leonardo, the former Jurys Inn, features a stylish bar and seasonal restaurant. Affordable Travelodge Aberdeen Central on Bridge Street also has its own bar.
