A fan’s guide – the club from early doors to today
Once considered Zagreb’s second club, Croatian champions in 2002, NK Zagreb have always been overshadowed by local rivals.
Formed as PNIŠK in 1903, the pioneering Bijeli (‘Whites’) provided HAŠK Zagreb with their first opposition in 1906 but thereafter barely figured in organised leagues, either before or after World War II.
With the dismantling of Concordia Zagreb in 1945, the club that would become NK Zagreb moved into the Stadion Kranjčevićeva, then the biggest stadium in town and occasional host of Yugoslav international fixtures.
As the second club in the capital of a newly independent Croatia after 1991, NK Zagreb assumed an unprecedented importance. Runners-up to Hajduk in the first, short season of 1992, NK repeated the feat in 1994 and later took on the likes of Sloga Jugomagnat and Vilaznia Shkodër in Europe.
The breakthrough came in 2001-02, when an unstoppable Ivica Olić revived a flagging career by bagging 21 goals in 28 games. Under later national coach Zlatko Kranjčar, Olić starred for the Whites for only this title-winning season, although Kranjčar came back for another stint in 2003-04. Despite the career swansong presence of Robert Prosinečki, NK Zagreb flopped completely and narrowly avoided relegation.
The only bright moments since have come from prolific striker Davor Vugrinec, who bagged nearly 30 goals for the Whites in only 50-plus games up to 2010. Relegation in 2013 wasn’t exactly a bright moment – but NK bounced right back up.
Despite goals from Gabrijel Boban, a distant cousin of Zvonimir, NK Zagreb were relegated once more in 2016 but this time fell straight down to the third tier and, pretty soon, the fourth. Moving out of the Stadion Kranjčevićeva in 2018, the Whites are now based at their training ground on Veslačka on the north bank of the Sava.
Stadium Guide
The field of dreams – and the stands around it
Moving out of the 8,850-capacity Stadion Kranjčevićeva, the second-most prominent stadium in the capital, in 2018, NK Zagreb had to downsize considerably and set up camp at their training ground alongside the parkland and sculptures that embellish the north bank of the Sava.
Referred to by certain sources as Zagrebello after the café that also stands here, the ground comprises a pitch alongside which an open low stand of several rows of seats can accommodate up to 1,000 spectators.
Backdropped by high-rises and tall trees, it also features modern club offices lending the venue a sense of identity. It may be some time before NK Zagreb require anything bigger – the club last made a modest run in the Croatian Cup in the relegation season of 2015-16.
getting there
Going to the stadium – tips and timings
The NK Zagreb training centre is south of the city centre, close to Veslačka and Prisavlje tram stops on lines 4, 5, 14 and 17. The 4 is linked to Zagreb’s main station, Glavni kolodvor, the 5 to the bus station, Autobusni kolodvor and the 14 and 17 to the main square, trg Bana Josipa Jelačića.
Wherever you set out from, the journey shouldn’t take more than 10-15mins.
getting in
Buying tickets – when, where, how and how much
For most games in the fourth tier, you can probably just wander in. Otherwise, there’ll be a modest charge of some 30kn-40kn/€4-€5.30, cash-only.
Where to Drink
Pre-match beers for fans and casual visitors
Its walls covered in black-and-white photos depicting NK Zagreb history, Zagrebello (daily 7am-11pm) is attached to the club’s swish new offices, the tables outside overlooking the pitch.
For a pre-match alternative, on the same side of the stadium at Veslačka 17, Egoist is the Cvjetno branch of this three-outlet chain of high-design café-restaurants spread across Zagreb. Coffee is served in arty, logo’d cups, snacks on tiles and standard bottled Croatian beer in stylish glasses.
On the other side of the ground, the Restaurant Balon (Prisavlje 2) is also at the smarter end of the scale but its garden is a pleasant spot for a glass of wine or beer.
