Kate Carlisle meets the team at the five-screen, multi-scarfed Brel in Amsterdam
Shirt-swapping may not be a daily occurrence, but it is not uncommon in Amsterdam’s 14-year running Café Brel. “Oh yes, shirts have come off and been exchanged. Right here at the bar,” says Ollie with a wink pointing to a few select tops hanging on the wall. As a long-time bartender at this Staatsliedenbuurt pub brimming with shirts and scarves from around the globe, there’s not much Ollie hasn’t seen.
The 60-square metre pub has five Belgian beers on tap, 60-70 bottled varieties, wine and mixed drinks, and if none of these is what you’re after, “a cup of tea is always on the house,” says Ollie, who stands by his claim that Café Brel has “the most beers per square metre”.
Aside from the décor, the bar is packed with regulars and a feeling of easy-going, unstated fellowship. Locals seated at the dark wooden bar rattle off their first team one by one – Ajax get the most shout-outs, followed by Feyenoord, Telstar, Cambuur, Fenerbahçe and Roma.
“There is even a Fenerbahçe jersey with Café Brel on the back,” says Ollie, pointing to a treasured item in the collection. Plus Celtic, Colo-Colo from Chilean friends, an Orlando Pirates scarf from a South African fan, Napoli… “All scarves are welcome,” he says.
Given this mosaic of supporters, there have naturally been a few tense moments. Feyenoord scarves have been stolen and burnt right outside the pub. There’s been some pushing and shoving, even among fans of the same team. “This building was shaking for Ajax in the quarter finals of the Dutch Cup,” says Ollie, the bar tested its capacity to the limit.
While airing all of the leagues is challenging, the four screens are always beaming out European and national matches, along with other sports, such as the current Winter Olympics. The World Cup included, of course. “For every league, you have to get a different subscription. I am trying to get the team here to sign up for the Premier League and others… we get calls every week from people asking.”
And there have even been a few rowdy exchanges for the fifth screen… the one in the men’s. “When the bar crowd is packed like sardines, sometimes insiders occupy the toilet,” says Ollie. “I get complaints from the ladies that they don’t have a screen in theirs. They are right to complain! So we’re working on it. There is one in the hallway, though. Sometimes it’s just too crowded for people to watch.”
Previously a coffeehouse called Café van Holt, Brel changed character when owner Pieter opted to follow Telstar after Ajax left De Meer. Gathering souvenirs from his travels, he decided to set up a sports bar with a Belgian twist, lining the counter with taps of La Chouffe, De Koninck, Maes, Jupiler and Brugse Zot, and naming the place after the revered son of Schaerbeek.
Café Brel has the pull of a cultural temple. A framed picture and letter from former Real Madrid coach Leo Beenhakker reads, “Thanks for your letter. Concerning your request: as far as I know there are no pennants with my picture on them. Maybe it’s better that way, because every now and then when I see myself in the mirror… So, sorry, I’m afraid I can’t help you. Kind regards, Leo Beenhakker. PS: I include a recent picture, so you can see what I mean“.
“This is one of our most treasured possessions,” says Ollie, beaming with pride. The cowbell over the bar is a gimmick referring to Telstar goalkeeper, Ronald Koeman (‘Cowman’), the son of the current Dutch manager of the same name.
“This is a neighbourhood bar,” says Ollie, “but we spread our bar around the country with our stickers. Away fans take them and paste them across town, on buses, on anything they can. One customer reckons he has seen Café Brel stickers as far away as Scotland.
While the neighbourhood is known for its rebellious nature – squatters and stand-offs with police – it is also welcoming. Takeaway food outlets abound. If bar staff are overwhelmed on big-match nights, they can commandeer reserves from the surrounding area. As Ollie puts it, “This is a little village with a very big heart”.
While visits by famous players are few and far between, you may notice a photo of Fulham full-back, Kenny Tete. “His father was my upstairs neighbour,” says Ollie. “His son was right-back at Ajax, then went to London. And he was so pleased, he gave me some pictures to put up in the bar. You’ve got to be proud of your kids.”
Café Brel, Van Hallstraat 37, 1051 Amsterdam. Open Mon-Thur, Sun 2pm-1am, Fri-Sat 2pm-3am. Bus 21/tram 5 to Van Hallstraat.
