By day, locals gather at the landmark Antico Caffè. Others take advantage of the prime view from panoramic hilltop Castello cocktail bar Libarium.

Cagliari stars of the past – most notably a certain iconic centre-forward of 1970 vintage – frequent excellent fish restaurant La Stella Marina di Montecristo (via Sardegna 140).

Finally, for waterside drinks, head for Emerson by the Quarta Fermata bus stop at Poetta or, at viale Calamosca a short walk from the bus stop of the same name at Cala Fighera, La Paillote with its own private beach. Both are owned by ex-Cagliari star François Modesto.