Teams, tales and tips – a guide to the local game
The lakeside resort of Lucerne is as picturesque a setting as you’ll find for a football match – even for Switzerland. The home of flagship club FC Luzern, the new-build swissporarena, may not be lakeside but is surrounded by snow-capped mountains and stands beside a classic old Swiss chalet restaurant.
An S-Bahn or city bus takes you there from Lucerne’s busy station in only a few minutes, to the site of the old Stadion Allmend that served the club from 1934. For the co-hosting of the Women’s Euros in 2025, the name is being revived to avoid promoting the stadium sponsors, a locally based eco-friendly construction company.
Overlooked for the 1954 World Cup and Euro 2008, Lucerne has recently been used a handful of times by the Swiss national football team. Railway hub Lucerne is set in the heart of Switzerland, a short train hop from Zürich, Berne and Basel, convenient for all.
As such, FCL have gained a fan base across a great swathe of central Switzerland, providing a lively atmosphere at the swissporarena without the overbearing zeal of supporters in Basel.
Founded at the Restaurant Seidenhof in 1901, FC Luzern have neither city rivals nor a cupboard groaning with silverware. Regular European competitors, including yet another unsuccessful adventure in 2023-24, Hibernian the victors, FCL have rarely progressed more than a round since 1960.
The club’s short period of glory came in the late 1980s and early 1990s under coach Friedel Rausch. A solitary title win in 1989 was followed by the cup win of 1992.
A top-flight proposition since 2006, FCL have lost more cup finals than they’ve won but, in Swiss terms, attract healthy crowds. Local rivalry, though, has been lacking since neighbours SC Kriens slipped down the Swiss league pyramid. In 2024-25, the Grün-Weiß came within a point of promotion to the second-tier Challenge League.
Were they to return, their Kleinfeld Stadium stands just by the southern fringe of Lucerne, and the area of Allmend where the swissporeana now stands.
For Euro 2025, Lucerne is laying on a free themed walk around its pretty historic centre – download the QR code from the tourist office housed within the impressive main train station. The fan zone occupies a prime site alongside on Europaplatz, with a live stage and a mini-pitch.
Getting Around
Arriving in town and local transport
The nearest airport to Lucerne is Zürich 67km (41.5 miles) away. One train an hour runs directly from Zürich Airport to Lucerne 1hr away, tickets SF30. Lucerne is given as ‘Luzern’ on local timetables.
For those going to and across Lucerne for the Women’s Euros in 2025, travel thr0ugh Switzerland and venue cities is free for match-ticket holders from midnight before the game and until 5am the following day. S-Bahn trains and buses run to the Allmend Stadion south of town.
Buses comprise Lucerne’s public transport. A single ticket is SF3, a day pass SF8. The stadium is in the same zone as Lucerne station. There’s also an S-Bahn regional train network that also serves the stadium, single tickets SF3.
For domestic fixtures, a valid match ticket allows free use of the bus or S-Bahn to and from the stadium for up to three hours before and after the game.
Ernst Hess taxis (+41 41 310 10 10) are based near the stadium.
Where to Drink
The best pubs and bars for football fans
Perhaps because of its location in the middle of Switzerland, possibly because of its particularly favourable tax rates, but whatever the reason, this city with one Swiss title to its name is full of football bars. Eichhof is the local beer.
Pick of the bunch, for atmosphere, management and sheer fun, is Legends Luzern. Run by the indefatigable Billy, Legends is a little spot tucked away close to the lake, with a penchant for Newcastle United and the Beatles. The pub women’s rugby team also gets a decorative look-in.
The nearby Anfield Pub (Seehofstraße 7) is a somewhat predictably themed sports bar, busy for big matches, unpromising otherwise.
The Lucerne branch of the Swiss Mr Pickwick Pub chain sticks to the standard, popular formula of its counterparts (TV football, Guinness, pub grub, mounted scarves) but here also offers an unsurpassable view of the lake and Chapel Bridge from its terrace. It also offers rooms upstairs.
On the opposite bank, the Irish-run Shamrock Irish Pub provides a more sedate experience, with a raised terrace set in the Old Town.
Finally, if you’ve had enough of sports bars by rote, Lake Lucerne is lined with plenty of boat restaurants for a beer with a view – at a price.
Where to stay
The best hotels for the stadium and city centre
The Lucerne Tourist Office has a hotel-booking service.
The only hotel near the stadium is the Spatz, recently renovated and with its own restaurant. Prices are about 20% higher in high season, between April and October inclusive.
In town, the Luzernerhof is a reliable, old-school, mid-range choice close to the lake. Nearby Rebstock is a charming choice, with sister operation the Hotel Hofgarten also close.
Overlooking the lake and the famous Chapel Bridge, the Hôtel des Alpes is classier (and pricier) than its three-star status might indicate.
Alongside, the Hotel Pickwick is attached to the expat-friendly chain pub of the same name, with simpler, cheaper rooms, all with waterfront views and most with balconies.
