The field of dreams – and the story behind it
A superb example of a national sports arena, a temple of rugby union, the former Millennium Stadium staged the 2017 Champions League Final between Real Madrid and Juventus – a more prestigious fixture could not be imagined.
The setting couldn’t have been better. From its prime vantage point between the Cardiff Castle and the River Taff, the waterside arena is a short walk from Cardiff Central station and an even shorter one from a dozen hotels of decent standard, and probably at least five times as many pubs.
Once the main venue for the Welsh national football team, rebranded the Principality Stadium in 2016, the Millennium then dropped out of favour as Wales’ home ground for international games. Rental costs and lower crowds shifted this honour to Swansea and Cardiff City – a crowd-pleasing friendly with Spain was played here in 2018.
Capacity is 74,500, under an open sky or a retractable roof – this is the world’s largest football stadium with such a feature. The atmosphere is relatively intimate, the noise enhanced seemingly tenfold should the roof ever be closed.
The Millennium usurped two rugby venues: Cardiff Arms Park still stands next door. Too limited to stage the Rugby World Cup of 1999, the National Stadium alongside was demolished and the £121 million Millennium built in its place for that very initial purpose.
As fate would have it, Wembley was being rebuilt around the same time, a drawn-out saga of hideous expense. Six FA Cup Finals were staged here, the last, in 2006, being the most memorable. The epic 3-3 clash between Liverpool and West Ham turned on a screaming 30-yard equaliser from Steven Gerrard on full-time. Penalties sent the trophy to Anfield – and back to England. Seven League Cup Finals were also played at the Millennium, play-offs and Community Shields.
Over its first decade, the Millennium was the regular home of the Welsh national side, who memorably beat Italy here in 2002. Poor form then led to poor crowds and it is not yet certain how the Welsh FA will select home venues in the future.
GETTING HERE
Getting to the stadium – tips and information
No national arena could be more convenient – the Principality Stadium is a short walk from Cardiff Central station and anywhere in the city centre.
stadium tours
Explore the stadium inside and out
Stadium tours (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm, 40min mini tours on events days; £12.50/£10 over-60s & students/£9 5-16s) can be booked on the Principality Stadium website. Visitors experience the roar of the 74,500 crowd, walk in the Wales team dressing room, see the pitch up close and get the chance to visit the president’s box.
Where to Drink
Pre-match beers for away fans and casual visitors
There probably isn’t a major stadium in Britain, even including Newcastle’s, with more nearby pubs than the city-centre Millennium. All venues suggested in the Cardiff section are a short walk from the ground.
Even closer, though, are the pubs and bars on Westgate Street. Directly opposite the main entrance, Tiny Rebel, run by the brewing company of the same name based in nearby Newport, not only proffers its Billabong pale ale, Rocksteady cider and Cwtch red ale, but also Cherry Cola fruit beer from Manchester’s Tickety Brew, Rhubarb Bob cider from Farmer Jim’s in Devon and Benchmark amber ale from Albourne’s Bedlam Brewery. It does food, too, with a side room for dining, and the urban, funky vibe is conveyed by BYO vinyl nights and retro video games evenings.
Next door, Bar 44 is all tapas and copas, the Cardiff branch of a quality chain set up by the Morgan brothers, tireless in their search for Cádiz anchovies or Galician beef. There’s Asturian cider on tap, cava locally produced by age-old Spanish methods and real-deal sherry from Jerez. Champions League night here will be like a florist’s Valentine’s.
Immediately behind on Womanby Street, a row of nightspots includes The Bootlegger, sister operation to the original venue in Bristol, where quality live music – blues, soul, jazz, rock – is showcased. Needing to compete with the clubs alongside, The Bootlegger currently offers happy-hour cocktails from 4pm to 10pm three nights a week, and all day Sundays.
Just behind Womanby Street, occupying a busy corner, the City Arms has long been a popular pre-match haunt, a Brains pub with a decent range of ales and 2am closing at weekends.
Similarly, back on Westgate Street, The Gatekeeper packs its vast interior with punters in the run-up to kick-off. It’s a Wetherspoons, so prices are moderate, and a decorative nod is given to the location with collage images of great sporting moments at Cardiff Arms Park that once stood opposite. There’s a back entrance from Womanby Street if it’s packed entering from Westgate Street.
Further along Westgate Street towards the station, you’ll find a Zero Degrees, a Brewdog and, most suitable of all, the Queens Vaults, a JW Bassett pub with Sky Sports HD, pool tables and cask ales and ciders.
