Teams, tales and tips – a guide to the local game
Scene of wild celebrations after Croatia’s heroic run to the World Cup semi-final in 2022, national capital Zagreb has always been a football-centric metropolis. Home to flagship club Dinamo, the city’s main stadium of the Maksimir shares international duties with the Poljud in Split, co-hosted the Euro finals in 1976 and lost out on the vote to perform a similar but more substantial role in 2012.
It was in 1912 that Zagreb, then under Austro-Hungarian rule, was chosen as base of the football branch of the newly formed Croatian Athletics Federation. Nine years before, the first club, HAŠK, had been founded by students and academics. Other clubs soon followed as the Sokol movement blossomed. Linked to similar associations in Prague, the Scout-like Sokol encouraged sporting activity and, though not openly, Slav nationalism.
Three main clubs HAŠK, Građanski and Concordia played each other in friendlies at the Maksimir Park, the city’s main green space where the stadium of the same name stands today east of town.
When the South Slavs – Yugoslavs – broke from the Habsburgs after World War I, a league was set up, originally based in Zagreb. The three Zagreb clubs took eight of the 17 titles up to 1940, but already, ten years earlier, internal disputes had the league HQ moved to Belgrade.
As a Nazi state in World War II, Croatia had its own national team and league, again dominated by the big three.
Under Tito, in the post-war Republic of Yugoslavia, Građanski, HAŠK and Concordia were disbanded as one on June 9, 1945 – and Dinamo Zagreb were founded in their place. The best players joined them, including Franjo Wölff, who would become top league scorer for two seasons running. Dinamo later took over the Maksimir ground from HAŠK, while Concordia ceded their ground to the club that would become NK Zagreb.
Građanski carried the nickname of ‘Purgeri’, one still granted to all citizens of Zagreb today. Dinamo also inherited their colours, fan base and, for three years, their stadium, the Koturaska. Abandoned in 1948, it was later demolished.
Dinamo became one of the Yugoslav big four, Zagreb’s Maksimir a regular host of Yugoslav internationals.
After 1991, in the considerably weaker independent Croatian league, Dinamo dominated and even NK Zagreb, previously only occasional participants in the all-Yugoslav one, shone.
Since then, top-flight Lokomotiva, a feeder club for Dinamo, have recently enjoyed a rare dip into Europe. As Viktoria, then Željezničar, Lokomotiva were the city’s fourth club before World War II, surviving the post-Tito era in their current guise. With the demise of NK, Lokomotiva are the capital’s de facto second club.
As if to prove it, Lokomotiva, after groundsharing the Maksimir with Dinamo, moved into the city’s other other main stadium, the Stadion Kranjčevićeva, close to the train station. Until 2018, this was also NK’s home ground, the former Croatian champions now having to play at their training ground on Veslačka on the north bank of the Sava.
Currently, both the Maksimir and the Kranjčevićeva await reconstruction, the latter needing to be in place so that Dinamo can move during reconstruction across town – although when this will happen is still uncertain. See Mystery surrounds Zagreb’s Maksimir.
Of the other Zagreb clubs, NK Hrvatski Dragovoljac, the ‘Black Warriors’, were reformed and renamed in honour of those who volunteered to fight in the Croatian War of Independence. In 2021, they gained promotion to the top division. Frequent competitors in the top tier in the late 1990s, the Croatian Volunteers are based at the Stadion NŠC Stjepan Spajić in the Siget district of Novi Zagreb, a short walk from the Velesajam tram stop on avenija Dubrovnik.
Challenging for a place to join them in the 1.HNL, Rudeš have their own stadium on Rudeška cesta, between main Zagrebačka cesta and Zagrebačka avenija. Regular competitors in the second tier until 2021, NK Sesvete are based in the eastern district of the same name, near Sesvete station, 15-20mins from Zagreb. HAŠK still exist, though in a much more modest form than pre-1945.
Just outside town, near the airport, Gorica represent the suburban community of Velika Gorica. Present in the top flight since 2018, the Goričani play at the Gradski stadion, built for the 1987 Summer Universiade for which a lot of the city’s leisure facilities were created. To reach it, take regular bus 268 from Zagreb station to the terminus, then walk 10=15mins up ulica Bratske Hrvatske Zajednice to the main road, avenija Pape Ivana Pavla II. The stadium is just opposite.
Getting Around
Arriving in town and local transport
Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman Airport is 17km (10.5 miles) south-east of the city centre. Half-hourly buses (€8, pay on board, 30min journey time) run to Zagreb bus station. A taxi to town should have a flat rate of €33.50.
The transport network comprises trams, night trams and buses for outlying areas. Trams 2 and 6 run three stops from the bus station to the main train station, Glavni kolodvor, the 6 going on to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, where most lines cross.
The Maksimir is located east of the centre, probably too far to walk, its own Park Maksimir stop directly linked by tram to the main square and both stations.
ZET offices, newsstands and the Zagreb Visitor Centre at the airport sells tickets. The easiest option is to buy a stored-value card (vrijednosna karta, €1.33), which you can then charge as you go at the same outlets.
A journey of 30mins is €0.53, 90mins €1.33, a 24hr pass €3.98, just select the right button on the yellow machine after you board and touch in. If you change lines within the time limit, touch in again.
Paper tickets (€0.93) are also available, including from the driver, although you’ll have to search for the solitary punching machine on board.
You may also use the moj ZET app, available in Android and Apple formats.
Taxis are parked outside the bus and train stations or call +385 1717.
Where to Drink
The best pubs and bars for football fans
On the main bar street of Tkalčićeva, winding the other side of the market from the main square, you’ll find the Oliver Twist (No.60) and the Pivnica Mali Medo (No.36), with its in-house beer, alongside several spots with football on large outdoor TV screens.
Bonn (No.22) is handy for a pizza with your match-viewing while History (Nos.57-68) has a wider culinary remit and larger TV screens.
Also close, on parallel Radićeva, Pinta appeals to local football fans with its homely atmosphere, TV, spot-on tunes and lack of tourists. Staff are genial – the half-Marseillaise, half-Croatian Eva won’t be shy in expressing her support for OM.
A few buildings up, the MK Bar, known as ‘Krolo’ after the writer Miroslav Krleža who lived here, is equally lived-in. Big matches are shown for the regulars gathered around the sturdy, half-moon bar counter. Close by, Valhalla serves those seeking rare brews.
Parallel to Tkalčićeva on the other side, Opatovina is equally lined with bars, only without the crowds. Pick of the bunch are Carpe Diem (No.23), which shows games and attracts plentiful home support for Croatia games and the timeless Kvazar, whose manifold beers match those of the nearby Barbeerian Craft Room, re-opened in mid-October 2024 after a makeover.
At the bottom of the street, in a bustling little square by the market, Harat’s is the extremely popular local branch of the successful Russia-wide chain of sports pubs.
On the other side of the main square, Boban is an upstairs café with an affordable Italian restaurant below, set up by the Croatian football star of the same name. This is another little bar hub, comprising Charlie’s (Gajeva 4), pub/club/restaurant Bulldog and Golf
Other spots here such as ZerO, Buzz and Soho may attract a trendier crowd but everyone’s focused on the TV screen for Croatia games. Nearby, lively rock bar Alcatraz, always full of up-for-it locals, now has a sister bar on Tkalčićeva.
Towards the station, the Čeh (‘Czech’) Pub serves Bohemian beers amid old music posters – though doesn’t open Sundays or Saturday lunchtimes – while across this junction of Hebrangova and Preradovića, the Old Pharmacy Pub makes a decent attempt at authenticity. Close by, retro Zagreb and revered rock icons meet at the cosy Mali Grad.
Right by the station, the Garden Bar shows sport on a big screen beneath the awning looking out over trg Kralja Tomislava. Irish-run Sheridan’s on Savska towards Stadion Kranjčevićeva also focuses on sport but favours GAA over soccer.
By the Zagreb Arena just over the river, Dribbling would clean up in the city centre – here on Lanište, it’s a superior sports bar filled with Croatian football iconography, used by locals who call this burgeoning part of town home.
Where to stay
The best hotels for the stadiums and city centre
The Zagreb Tourist Office on the main square has a comprehensive database of hotels.
On the main road leading to the stadium, Maksimirska cesta, one tram stop nearer town, the Funk Lounge Hostel on Rendićeva can also provide cheap twins, doubles and small dorms walking distance from the stadium. There are surprisingly few other lodgings in the immediate vicinity.
Close to the Stadion Kranjčevićeva, and within easy reach of the station and main square, the Laguna is a pleasant three-star with bar and restaurant. Halfway between stadium and the main station, the Garden Hotel on Valentina Vodnika comprises 36 sleek rooms, a bar and restaurant.
Across Savska and in a whole different category, the Westin is one of Zagreb’s prime business hotels, with a spa, pool and gym. Overlooking a nearby junction, named after the skyline it reaches up to, the cylindrical Hotel Blue offers mid-range rooms with a view.
Hotels on or near the main square are handy for either stadium, particularly the Maksimir. Overlooking it since the 1800s, the century-old Hotel Dubrovnik has a modern and a classic wing, and doubles in the €150 range. Also close, on the main street of Ilica, and affordable, the Jägerhorn is similarly priced but cosier.
Up bar-lined Tkalčićeva but set back from the hubbub, the Academia impresses with its four-star rooms, underground garage and bistro.
For upscale gatherings, the football fraternity prefers the equally central Sheraton at Kneza Borne 2, while the Palace is an Art-Deco classic dating back to 1907. It’s also conveniently located by the Zrinjevac tram stop, halfway between the main square and the train station. On the other side of the Art Pavilion, the Astoria is a handy mid-range option.
The most famous lodging in town is the Esplanade, built by the station to serve the Orient Express, and host to royalty and film stars. Orson Welles was a famous regular. Nearby on main, tram-lined Branimirova, the functional Hotel Central stands almost as close to the station.
More contemporary in style, with free cycle provision and a 24-hour gym, Canopy by Hilton Zagreb City Centre stands diagonally opposite the train station.
To stay by Zagreb bus station, the No.9 has boutique pretensions with three floors of differing colours. Just behind on Supilova, the Hotel National can provide a comfortable, affordable stay while behind that, on Ivana Bunića Vučića, the Sliško does the job with 49 ‘budget’ and ‘comfort’ rooms.
Also close, on the main street of Vukovara, the DoubleTree by Hilton is a different category altogether, with a panoramic gym, pool and sauna.
Down on Rudeška, the Admiral offers upscale luxury around a large casino, sports bar, spa centre and restaurant. It’s run by a major betting company so gambling opportunities abound, but you won’t need to go far to watch the match – any match.
Out in the west of town, the modern Jarun contrasts with the local football team and market of the same name on either side, both throwbacks to a bygone Zagreb.
What to see
The best football sights in town
Right by the main square on the corner with Petrinjska, Budi ponosan (‘Be Proud’) (Tue-Sat 10am-6pm) tells the story of the Croatian national football team, from its earliest beginnings to the Euro disappointment of 2024.
The emphasis is on these recent triumphs but you can still pick out newspaper reports from the early 1990s when this newly independent country was forming its first national side of modern times, with details of famous players through the ages.
Although in a prominent location, the space isn’t big enough to cover much more. Admission is free, and it’s well worth a look around.
