Teams, tales and tips – a guide to the local game
Madrid can justifiably call itself the centre of the football universe. In 2024, Real Madrid imposed their regal will on Europe’s best for the 15th time, lifting the premier prize more than twice as many times as the next most successful club since 1956.
It’s not just those famous five straight victories in the earliest days of the European Cup – between 2013-14 and 2023-24, the trophy made its way to the stately boulevard of La Castellana six times.
The club is also changing the skyline of the capital’s financial district, the once familiar brutalist exterior of the Estadio Bernabéu giving way to a wraparound of sleek steel enclosing a contemporary, all-purpose arena unveiled in September 2023. Due for full completion in 2025, it will surely witness the 2030 World Cup Final, 48 years after the last one here.
Real’s third consecutive trophy in 2018 meant four triumphs in five seasons, twice over then recently crowned Spanish champions Atlético Madrid in two almighty cross-city clashes at the very highest level. No other metropolis has provided both finalists for Europe’s titanic showdown – Madrid has done it twice.
When the same rivals met at the San Siro in 2016, it was the same late heartbreak for working-class Atlético as they suffered In 2014. Only the width of a goalpost separated the teams in Milan, Real’s Cristiano Ronaldo inevitably putting away the crucial spot kick in the shoot-out.
To mark such victories, Real fans party in Madrid’s Plaza de Cibeles. Atlético’s last league triumph of 2021 was celebrated at the nearby Plaza de Neptuno. Geographically, apart from bitter meetings between two at least twice a season on the football pitch, this is pretty much the closest both sets of supporters come to each other.
Real are football’s royalty, basking in their palatial home since 1947. Its turf has been graced by the likes of Di Stéfano, Puskás, Ronaldo, Zidane, Beckham and Cristiano Ronaldo, striding out in Real’s iconic all-white strip.
While the Bernabéu is surrounded by grand façades and banks, Atlético moved from a site beside a riverside brewery south of town to the Estadio Metropolitano in Madrid’s far eastern outskirts towards the airport. This at least makes it convenient for showcase fixtures, such as the Champions League final of 2019.
Nonetheless, the difference in status between the two rivals remains. For Real, the big game is El Clásico with Barcelona. For the Colchoneros (‘Mattress Makers’) of Atlético, it’s El Derbi madrileño.
Both clubs have their roots in the early 1900s, Real as Madrid FC, whose dissident members helped form Atlético. It wasn’t until 1929 that the rivals met, in the inaugural Spanish league.
Key board member Santiago Bernabéu brought in goalkeeper Ricardo Zamora to claim their first league titles in the early 1930s. Zamora later became a rare hero for both clubs when he coached Atlético to their first league title a decade later.
As chairman, Bernabéu transformed Real into world-beaters, on a completely different plane from every Spanish club but one. Atlético have treated their significant fan base to moments of glory with the European Cup run of 1974, the double year of 1996 and title wins in 2014 and 2021.
Getafe, from Madrid’s southern suburbs, surprised many by maintaining a league presence from 2004, mainly thanks to foreign coaches such as Bernd Schuster and Michael Laudrup. A cup final appearance and memorable extra-time defeat to Bayern Munich in the UEFA Cup have been other highlights.
Fellow Madrid also-rans Rayo Vallecano are based at the staunchly left-wing district of Vallecas, where Atlético had their first home. Rayo have been yo-yoing between divisions for years – their current run in the Primera dates back to 2021.
Promoted in 2024, CD Leganés are local rivals of Getafe from the southern suburbs, linked by the city’s commuter train network fanning out from the major rail hub of Atocha.
Further down the C-5 line you find Fuenlabrada, whose stadium is named after the local boy made good, former Atlético and Liverpool striker Fernando Torres. Fuenla, as this team in blue is nicknamed, made the Segunda in 2019 but currently sit in the third-tier Primera Federación, alongside three others from the capital and surroundings.
One of them is AD Alcorcón, based in the southern suburb of the same name, Alcorcón were responsible for perhaps the biggest Spanish Cup upset of all time, the 4-0 thrashing of Real Madrid, Benzema, van Nistelrooy and all, in 2009.
Knocking on the door of La Liga two years running, Alcorcón lost out to Girona at the one-but final hurdle in 2013. The Yellows play at the Estadio Municipal de Santo Domingo, near Las Retamas station on the same C5 line from Atocha.Sh
Sharing divisional status in 2024-25 are Real Madrid’s reserve side, Real Madrid Castilla, who play at the Estadio Alfredo di Stéfano at the club’s training complex at Valdebebas. Like all B sides, Castilla are ineligible to play in the top flight but enjoyed a moment of glory by reaching the Spanish Cup final in 1980.
Although losing to, of all teams, Real Madrid 6-1, Castilla qualified for the Cup Winners’ Cup, and beat then FA Cup holders West Ham, Brooking, Bonds, Lampard and all, at the Bernabéu. The illustrious Hammers then required extra-time at Upton Park to overcome Real Madrid’s B team.
Only 262 were in the crowd to celebrate, however, as crowd disturbances at the away end in Madrid resulted in a UEFA ruling that the second leg should be played behind closed doors.
Castilla remained in the third tier after the league restructuring of 2021, missing their chance to go up after a goalless draw with Ibiza in the promotion play-offs.
The 6,000-capacity stadium, opened in 2006 with a game against Reims to mark the 50th anniversary of the first European Cup final, saw plenty of action during the pandemic and even hosted Real’s Champions League semi-final with Chelsea in 2021.
Getting Around
Arriving in town and local transport
Madrid-Barajas Airport is 13km (8 miles) north-east of the city centre, linked by metro line 8 to Nuevos Ministerios (15mins). Plans are in place to extend line 8 to the metro station serving Santiago Bernabéu in time for the 2030 World Cup. Currently, it sits one stop from Nuevos Ministerios on line 10.
A metro ticket is €1.50-€2, a ten-trip metrobús pass is €12.20, plus €3 for the airport supplement. A one-day pass, including the price of the Multi card (€2.50) and an airport supplement, is €10. Machines are located in metro stations.
There’s also a rail link on suburban lines C-1/C-10 direct from Barajas Terminal 4 to main Atocha station (every 15mins, journey time 30mins) via Nuevos Ministerios and the city’s second station of Chamartín.
Madrid’s main stadiums – Real, Atlético and Rayo – are beside metro stops within Zone A, which also includes the airport. Clubs in the southern suburbs – Getafe, Alcorcón and Fuenlabrada – lie in Zones B1/B2, served by circular line 12/MetroSur. Leganés and Alcorcón are on suburban rail line C-5 from Atocha, Getafe on the C-4.
A Radio Taxi Madrid to or from the airport incurs a flat rate of €33 to town, with ranks outside each of the four terminals. Call +34 911 76 00 81. Around town, look out for one of the many white cars with a signature red sash, or call Tele Taxí (+34 913 702 131).
Where to Drink
The best pubs and bars for football fans
To find Madrid’s best football bars, all roads lead to Sol, the nightlife hub by the metro station of the same name. Among the many busy spots, O’Connell, St and adjoining Dubliners (Calle de Espoz y Mina 7) are the nearest expat-friendly drinking destinations guaranteed to screen Premier League action.
Where Sol meets Calle de Espoz y Mina, LaLiga TwentyNine’s sits atop the LEGENDS Experience (see below, What to see and Where to shop), a joint venture between FIFA and La Liga, a football museum and store in one. The lofty flagship of the global TwentyNine’s brand is accessed by taking the lift at the back of the store to the fifth floor. It fills a fairly narrow slice of roof terrace offering unmemorable views (strain your neck to make out the iconic Tío Pepe sign), as well as occupying a similarly narrow indoor space.
Small beers poured from a single tap of Mahou carry a €4.50 price tag, while a fairly regular menu is similarly expensive. Still, watching a game on one of several screens as brightness falls over Madrid cannot be gainsaid. Open until midnight at weekends, 11pm on Sundays and weekdays.
Similarly priced but considerably bigger, its sister outlet sits about ten minutes’ walk away, right on Madrid’s showcase avenue, the Gran Vía. A circular display of shirts of the 20 La Liga clubs welcomes visitors into a spacious sports bar/restaurant, surrounded by screens. Busy on big match nights.
Further along the boulevard, the other side of Callao, another upscale sports bar awaits bulging wallets – this one costs €10 just to enter. Part of a hotel and sports bar chain owned by Cristiano Ronaldo, the Pestana CR7 Gran Vía features a sports bar on its ninth-floor rooftop. It’s also a pizzeria, with match-winning views of Madrid. There’s no dress code but scruffy customers need not apply.
More pub-like haunts dot the city centre: the Triskel Tavern near Tribunal metro has been a popular football-watching option for two decades, particularly its basement, La Caverna.
Also downtown is James Joyce, with three large screens near the Plaza de Cibeles where Real Madrid fans celebrate. For something a little more Spanish, the Cruz Blanca at Calle Mayor 68, a short walk from Sol, is a popular spot for match-watching while operating as a regular Madrileño restaurant.
Football-focused La Cervecería Deportiva at Calle de las Veneras 7 near Callao is a handy spot for match-watching over tapas, cañas and platos, surrounded by mounted memorabilia.
Locals prefer places such as the screen-filled traditional tavern La Fontana de Oro in the Sol bar hub, while tourists flock to admire the bullfighting iconography at La Torre de Oro on Plaza Mayor.
Close to Alonso Martínez metro station on C/de Sagasta, Collin’s Irish Tavern shows sport but focuses more on traditional live music, while Paddy’s near Concha Espina metro puts football first, thanks to friendly Madrileño Paco who’s been running the place for more than 25 years. He’ll be the gent in the Celtic shirt saying hello to everyone.
Its location means you can easily hop on line 8 one stop away, meaning the place is ideal for a welcome drink soon after you arrive into Madrid – or perfectly suits a farewell pint as you’re leaving.
Less authentic but popular as a sports bar, live venue and pub restaurant since 1995, the irish Rover fits in with the sleek hotels and business HQs surrounding it, a few blocks from the Bernabéu.
For craft beer, there’s a tiny hub of three niche bars in Chamberí, close to Bilbao metro. The only with TV screens tuned to football is Beerhouse, while Cervecería L’Europe opposite concentrates on global brews, offered at reduced rates during happy hour between 6pm-8pm.
At the same junction, Oldenburg, is the most Germanic yet cosiest, but its opening hours are pretty erratic.
Where to stay
The best hotels for the stadiums and city centre
The Madrid Tourist Office on Plaza Mayor has a hotel database.
Closest to the centrally located Bernabéu, the AC Hotel Aitana has all the trappings of a four-star in the Marriott chain, gym, restaurant and 24-hour room service. Just the other side of the Paseo de la Castellana, the stylish H10 Tribeca at C/Pedro Texeira 5 exudes urban cool, with its own Soho Restaurant and lobby bar.
Further up, either side of Cuzco metro one stop from the Bernabéu, the business-friendly Westin Cuzco has been fully renovated, while the NH Collection Madrid Eurobuilding has its own spa, gym, sports courts and high-end restaurant.
Sister hotel, NH Madrid Paseo de la Habana, is equally convenient for the Bernabéu, though with somewhat less bling.
With Atlético now out by the airport, staying there makes little sense unless you’re booking a room by Barajas itself, in which case there are plenty of chain choices.
Basing yourself on the Gran Vía, around the centre of town, Callao, allows easy access to Real, Atlético and bar quarter near Sol. Prime spot on the Gran Vía belongs to Cristiano Ronaldo, the Madrid branch of his Pestana CR7 brand, rooftop sports bar and all.
You’ll also find a sports bar built into the Hotel Emperador, a reassuringly old-school four-star with a rooftop pool and the Gran Vía branch of football-focused LaLiga TwentyNine’s (see above, Where to drink) alongside.
The nearby Espahotel provides reliable mid-range comfort in a prime location, as does the Mayorazgo just behind.
The Indigo Madrid Gran Via (Calle de Silva 6) justifies the outlay once you’re lying by the rooftop infinity pool, the Spanish capital laid out before you. There are more panoramic views from the Apartments Gran Vía Capital, also with a pool, plus a sauna, gym and solarium, right on the main avenue itself, at No.48. At No.32, also high-end and high up, the Hyatt Centric has flat-screen TVs as expansive as the city views from each guest room.
The next grand building along, the surprisingly affordable three-star Madrid Gran Via 25, with the same winning location and 24-hour reception. For somewhere affordable in the bar quarter, you could do far worse than the Hostal Santa Cruz, two minutes’ walk from Plaza Mayor.
Towards Atocha station, the TRYP Madrid Atocha Hotel, by the southern exit of Anton Martín metro station, offers mid-range comfort and convenience. Further south, if you’re taking in a game at Rayo Vallecano, the ibis Budget Calle 30 on Calle Lozano is one metro stop or a 10min walk away.
Where to shop
The best football stores in town
Anchoring a prominent corner of the square around Sol, LEGENDS/LaLiga TwentyNine’s football museum Isee below What to see) and rooftop sports bar Isee above Where to drink) occupy the same building, whose street-level space is lined with merchandise related to clubs around Spain and to FIFA’s golden history. This means you can find Deportivo La Coruña’s latest home kit and a retro Brazil top from the 1962 World Cup on the next rail.
Still in the city centre, a couple of stores along historic Calle Toledo stock all kinds of football gear. At No.11, Yo-Fútbol (Mon-Sat 10am-9.30pm, Sun 11am-7pm) carries the shirts, flags and badges of all top La Liga clubs and a few Segunda ones, too. Alongside at No.13, Hola Madrid is more generic but still sells soccer shirts and T-shirts.
See Real Madrid and Atlético Madrid for details of their downtown outlets.
What to see
Top attractions for the visiting football fan
Touting itself as ‘the best football experience ever’, LEGENDS (Carrera de San Jerónimo 2) is a co-production of FIFA, La Liga, UEFA, CONMEBOL and the IOC in the heart of Madrid. Select your visit time online (€23, discounted €15-€18, 3-6s free; Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm) – the building occupies a prominent corner near Sol metro station.
This visual extravaganza of football culture and history is based, quite incredibly, on the shirt collection of one man, Argentine Marcelo Ordás. His niche obsession with unique match-worn tops began with a personal gift from Claudio Caniggia after his compatriot had just knocked Brazil out of the 1990 World Cup with a famous late goal.
From there, Ordás travelled the world in search of rare treasure from life-changing games, although the dark-blue shirt Diego Maradona wore in the 1986 clash with England eluded him – claimed by a canny Steve Hodge after the final whistle, it sold for more than €7 million in 2022.
What Ordás did manage to obtain, however, cost him nothing. Desperate for the shirt Maradona wore when Argentina won the 1986 final, handed to his marker during the game, Lothar Matthäus, Ordás begged the German to sell, only for the former Bayern star to come to Madrid personally and present it to Ordás as a gesture in a ceremony at the Argentine Embassy.
Audio-visual displays, a 4D film, a special section on La Liga and other interactive features make for an entertaining visit of around two hours. Downstairs, you find the LEGENDS store (see above Where to shop) and on the fifth floor, LaLiga TwentyNine’s rooftop sports bar (see above Where to drink).
