The field of dreams – and the story behind it
The patches of cloud forest swathing La Primavera, the wooded biosphere reserve backdropping the Estadio Akron, partly inspired French architect/inventor Jean-Marie Massaud to create the signature white ring floating above its 46,000 fire-red seats. Its bowl shape is also taken from the natural surroundings of extinct volcanos – spectators enter as if under the volcano and two of the arena’s five levels are below ground.
No wonder it was almost a decade in the making. When film producer and nutrients entrepreneur Jorge Vergara took over the city’s flagship club, CD Guadalajara, in 2002, it was his aim to have them move out of their groundshare at the Estadio Jalisco (of World Cup 1970 fame) and into a new stadium for their centenary in 2006.
In the end, the curtain-raising was script-perfect but not as Vergara originally envisaged – who knows what he thought when fantasy designer Massaud first sat in his office talking of clouds and volcanos. And out in Zapopan, 15 minutes from Guadalajara.
Massaud’s ring provides shade but, separated the upper rim of seating, allows natural light to fall over spectators and the turf, which soon replaced the controversial artificial surface. This was the stage for local boy Javier Hernández to bid farewell to fans by scoring the opening goal in the curtain-raising friendly Manchester United, the club he had just signed for, in 2010. He then played for his new team in the second half.
CD Guadalajara, known by all as Chivas, recruits only Mexicans, often raising them, too. ‘Chicarito’ would return the love shown by his home town by returning to see out his illustrious playing career in 2023. Note that the Estadio Akron will be referred to be its non-sponsored name of the Estadio Guadalajara for the tournament.
getting here
Going to the stadium – tips and timings
The Estadio Akron is not actually in Guadalajara but Zapopan, an adjoining community a 15-minute drive west from the metropolis. A new express route on the Macrobús network, Line 5 (Mi Macro Aeropuerto), will run from the airport, calling at eight stops including main points in the city centre and the stadium.
Order and pay for a taxi at the desk in airport arrivals. Expect to pay around MX$750/US$42 to the stadium and MX$500/US$28 to the city centre. Zapopan-based A Su Servicio GDL taxis (+52 33 3146 2354) are fairly reliable. Note that Uber drivers must pick up and drop off in a car park 1.2km from the airport on the Chapala highway.
