The field of dreams – and the story behind it
Eco-friendly Levi’s Stadium, a sports arena with a farm on its roof, opened in 2014 with an MLS game between San Jose Earthquakes and Seattle Sounders – but it was designed to be the new home of NFL team San Francisco 49ers after the demolition of Candlestick Park. Unsurprisingly corporate, given its proximity to Silicon Valley and universally known sponsor, for many, Levi’s Stadium could never hold a candle to Candlestick Park, even though few baseball fans miss its foggy dew and chilly winds.
An open bowl of 68,500 fire-red seats, expanded to 71,000 for the World Cup, Levi’s Stadium might suit the winter but for events in summer – such as showcase friendlies involving Manchester United, Barcelona, Real Madrid and Wrexham – the sun frazzles one side of the stadium, forcing spectators to find relief at the many concessions stands. That covering for rotational crops sits atop a building containing the suites, rather protect regular ticket-holders from the elements.
As the stadium lies on the flight path into nearby San Jose International Airport, a roof would not have been possible anyway. On the plus side, a location right by rail and light rail stations means this is a rare World Cup stadium conveniently facilitated by public transportation. Host of two Super Bowls – including the most recent one featuring that epic halftime show by Bad Bunny – and concerts by Taylor Swift and Beyoncé, Levi’s Stadium rises to the big occasion. Please note for the duration of the tournament, the venue will be known as San Francisco Bay Area Stadium.
Sadly, no Pot 1 team was drawn to play here in the World Cup group stage, the reason for the lack of a fan festival. (Followers of Australia’s Socceroos can be trusted to find bars in San Francisco.) If Team U.S.A wins its group, it plays its Round of 32 fixture here – although tailgating is poor compared to how it was at Candlestick Park. The meeting point is Clara’s Junction on Tasman Drive, a large, sports-friendly bar with a taco truck and pit bbq.
A little further away but well worth the trek, Barebottle is the Santa Clara outpost of a California-wide operation set up by a trio of a college mates who moved out west from New York State to live the dream. Certified beer judges, they decided to brew their own hazy IPAs and Yosemire pilsners at a chain of taprooms, including this one on Augustine Drive. Two-dozen tap beers keep the vibe lively, Detroit-style pizza squares keep the customers satisfied and there’s a pool table, too.
getting here
Going to the stadium – tips and timings
West of the stadium, Great America Station is served by the Orange and Green Lines of the VTA light rail network, linked with the transport hub of San Jose Diridon, as well as bus route 60 from San Jose International Airport via Metro/Airport Station, total journey time 45mins. A taxi (Yellow Checker Cab +1 408-777-7777) takes 10mins and costs $35-$40. Equally close to the east, Santa Clara, Great America Station is on the Amtrak and ACE lines.
From San Francisco Caltrain Station on the city’s Muni network, take the Caltrain either to Mountain View (every 30mins), then transfer to the VTA Orange Line, total journey time 1hr 30-45mins, or to Santa Clara (1hr 15mins) then head back via Amtrak to Santa Clara, Great America (7mins). Sacramento, Berkeley and Oakland are directly linked with Amtrak.
A taxi from San Francisco International Airport takes 40mins and costs around $180. For a general taxi around town, try Allied Yellow Cab (+1 650-579-7000). Getting around the San Francisco Bay Area, you’ll also need the BART Line.
At $9 a ride, cable cars are mainly for tourists – either pay in cash with exact change, or invest in a Clipper Card from machines and convenience stores ($3) or download the app for free. There’s contactless payment, too. Either is also valid for the San Francisco Bay Ferry (short hop $1.10 or $4.90-$7.40), which has its own app.
