Teams, tales and tips – a football fan's guide to San Francisco & Santa Clara
At the head of the tech-focused Bay Area, San Francisco is synonymous with the Gold Rush, post-war counterculture and five-time Super Bowl winners, the 49ers. Based at Levi’s Stadium down the bay in Santa Clara, the Niners first played at Kezar Stadium in a corner of Golden Gate Park.
Built in 1925 on proceeds bequeathed by Mary Kezar, the youngest of a successful pioneer family from the mid-1800s, Kezar Stadium was reconstructed 90 years later, a revered landmark for many San Franciscans. Key scenes from Dirty Harry were filmed here, chosen after Clint Eastwood realised its cinematic potential while watching a 49ers’ game.
It was also here that Hungarian soccer legend Ferenc Puskás briefly managed the short-lived (and strangely named) San Francisco Golden Gate Gales, which folded with the formation of NASL in 1968. Recently, supporter-owned San Francisco City Football Club has moved into the rebuilt stadium, to play matches in the semi-pro USL League Two and U.S. Open Cup. Alongside, The Kezar Pub is the best sports bar in town.
Showcase soccer fixtures have always been staged down the Bay, first to Stanford Stadium at the namesake university, where the US and Brazil drew huge crowds for the 1984 Olympic tournament, then for six games at the 1994 World Cup, one involving the same two teams on July 4. The 49ers, meanwhile, moved out to Candlestick Park, site of the Beatles’ final show in 1966. Once it was knocked down in 2015, after a farewell concert given by Paul McCartney, some of its seats went to Kezar Stadium and focus shifted to Santa Clara.
Though without a host soccer team since opening in 2014, Levi’s Stadium has witnessed major fixtures such as Manchester United playing Barcelona and Real Madrid in summer tournaments before sub-70,000 crowds, and the annual visit of San Jose Earthquakes, the nearest MLS side a ten-minute drive or train ride away.
No major fan festival is currently planned for the San Francisco Bay Area.
Getting HERE
Arriving in town and city transport
West of the stadium, Great America Station is served by the Orange and Green Lines of the VTA light rail network, linked with the transport hub of San Jose Diridon, as well as bus route 60 from San Jose International Airport via Metro/Airport Station, total journey time 45mins. A taxi (Yellow Checker Cab +1 408-777-7777) takes 10mins and costs $35-$40. Equally close to the east, Santa Clara, Great America Station is on the Amtrak and ACE lines.
From San Francisco Caltrain Station on the city’s Muni network, take the Caltrain either to Mountain View (every 30mins), then transfer to the VTA Orange Line, total journey time 1hr 30-45mins, or to Santa Clara (1hr 15mins) then head back via Amtrak to Santa Clara, Great America (7mins). Sacramento, Berkeley and Oakland are directly linked with Amtrak.
A taxi from San Francisco International Airport takes 40mins and costs around $180. For a general taxi around town, try Allied Yellow Cab (+1 650-579-7000). Getting around the San Francisco Bay Area, you’ll also need the BART Line.
At $9 a ride, cable cars are mainly for tourists – either pay in cash with exact change, or invest in a Clipper Card from machines and convenience stores ($3) or download the app for free. There’s contactless payment, too. Either is also valid for the San Francisco Bay Ferry (short hop $1.10 or $4.90-$7.40), which has its own app.
Where to Drink
The best pubs and bars for football fans
First port of call should be The Kezar Pub, by the historic stadium of the same name and Golden Gate Park, a screen-filled haven for Liverpool and 49ers’ followers, open from 6am at weekends to broadcast Premier League action. Expect humungous Kezar breakfasts, wings and plentiful tap options, but most of all, old-school atmosphere.
Close by, Haight Street of 1960s’ lore is where you find Mad Dog in the Fog, where Chesterfield scarves are given equal prominence as Real Madrid’s – if you can make them out among the TVs, flags and framed shirts. All World Cup games shown.
A few blocks along, Danny Coyle’s opens early for Premier League and Bundesliga games, specifically for fans of Manchester United, Spurs, Bayern and Borussia Dortmund who, somehow, all convene here. It also prides itself on the quality of its Guinness.
Nearby, Nickie’s numbers among the better sports bars, serving breakfast from 10am on weekends and screening Premier League action, plus all World Cup games. Over by Union Square, Golden Gate Tap Room specialises in TV sports, pub games and IPA varieties. Early opening for certain World Cup games.
