Teams, tales and tips – a football fan's guide to Houston
Forever associated with space travel rather than soccer, Houston lacks the sporting heritage of its Texan rival and fellow World Cup co-host, Dallas. While the stadium hosting MLS team here, Houston Dynamo, was the first soccer-specific one to open in a downtown location, its modest capacity of 22,000 means that games this summer are being played at NFL arena (and rodeo venue) NRG Stadium three miles south of downtown Houston.
Only opened a decade before Shell Energy Stadium, NRG sits in a similarly branded sports and entertainment complex connected by the city’s light rail network, a huge plus when compared to Dallas.
And while business-focused Houston lacks the range and variety of pubs and sports bars of Dallas and, indeed, Austin, the ones it does have are mainly clustered around the soccer stadium, within easy reach of the Central Business District and downtown hotels. Bear in mind that Houston in June means searing temperatures and high humidity – plan accordingly and stay indoors mid-afternoon.
Major soccer games, invariably involving Mexico, have been played to capacity crowds at NRG Stadium almost as soon as it was unveiled, although Dynamo had a more convoluted beginning.
The 2006 MLS expansion team was created when AEG relocated its San Jose Earthquakes franchise here, giving the new entity the somewhat insensitive name of Houston 1836. Mexicans hardly needed reminding of the battle won by General Sam Houston which gained Texas its independence.
Switching to Houston Dynamo, the debutants won back to back MLS Cups in their first two seasons but last made the final in 2012.
East Downtown hosts the World Cup Fan Fest, free to enter and running all tournament-long.
Getting here
Arriving in town and city transport
Houston is served by two airports: the major George Bush Intercontinental (IAH) is 23 miles (37km) north of Downtown Houston and the older William P Hobby seven miles (11km) southeast of the city center. Now an operating base for low-cost Southwest Airlines, Hobby Airport is only 15min taxi journey ($35) to NRG Stadium, also south of Downtown. Houston Cab Taxi (+1 832-807-6403) has online booking.
From IAH, the Route 500 IAH Downtown Direct bus leaves Terminal E, Level 2, exit door E201, every 30mins nonstop for George R Brown Convention Center ($4.50, 35mins) in the heart of Downtown Houston. Buses then go on to Hobby Airport, 1hr 15min total journey time from IAH. Pay with cash, credit card or contactless. Alternatively, you can use the local RideMETRO card ($2 from vending machines/RideStore locations) or download its app, and tap in.
The standard fare for the METRO Local Bus and METRORail to the stadium is $1.25. A day pass is $3. This includes the slower 102 IAH Express bus from Terminal C at IAH to downtown Miliam & Rusk (50mins). The Red Line on the METRORail network runs every 6-12mins from Central Station to Stadium Park/Astrodome (25-30mins), a short walk to NRG Stadium. Free transfers for up to 3hrs allow you to change from the Green or Purple Lines at Central.
There’s free parking at West Loop Transit Center (4675 Braeswood Blvd, Houston, TX 77096) southwest of the city, where a shuttle bus ($2) runs every 30mins to Fannin South Park & Ride, one stop ($1.25) from NRG Stadium (4mins).
Where to Drink
The best pubs and bars for football fans
The best sports bars are found around Shell Energy Stadium, conveniently located close to downtown. Pitch 25 ‘creates community and passion for soccer fans’ thanks to its origin story. Orange Crush legend Brian Ching conceived of an interactive bar with its own soccer pitch and teams but where the more sedentary supporter can share a pitch platter or tuck into ribeye steak (this is Texas, remember), choose from 100 draft beers (happy hours Mon-Fri 3pm-6pm) and join communal watch parties.
After years of flying the flag for the beautiful game, Pitch 25 is finally able to welcome soccer lovers from Portugal, Germany, Holland and other major football-loving nations, with two knock-out games also being staged in Houston. Open until 2am, so you can easily pop in after the game at NRG Stadium south of town – the bar is about a mile’s hop to Central Station and the Red Line connecting to the venue.
Even closer to the stadium, King’s Court attracts the local Manchester United and Chelsea fraternity with multiple screens, drinks deals and curry, along with standard pub grub.
Also nearby, Little Woodrow’s EaDo is the local branch of a backyard bar chain, with generous happy hours (particularly Fridays) and alfresco World Cup watch parties sponsored by Michelob ULTRA.
On the other side of the stadium, Texas Tailgate makes perfect sense on game days when gatherings convene and music rings out. Screens a-plenty, of course.
A few blocks from the stadium, where the We Love Houston signs used to be, 8th Wonder combines craft brews, cannabis products and a love of local baseball team, the Astros. It’s a huge barn of a place with a large yard, offset by TV screens, barrels and a vast chalkboard of beer options – friendly staff can advise.
Close to the ballpark, Biggio’s, in the Marriott Marquis Houston, allows guests to sample local craft brews such as Eureka Heights and Tejas Beer while watching the action on a big screen. Nearby, the Houston branch of nationwide chain Tom’s Watch Bar stages World Cup watch parties thanks to its phalanx of screens, specialty margaritas and superior bar food.
