Teams, tales and tips – a football fan's guide to Philadelphia
Philadelphia is staging its first World Cup as America marks the 250th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence, signed right here – in fact, the last match to be hosted at Lincoln Financial Field will be on July 4, although probably not involving Team USA.
Missing out in 1994 as JFK Stadium had just been demolished, the City of Brotherly Love later welcomed MLS team Philadelphia Union, founded in 2008 and soon moving to soccer-specific Subaru Park, beside a former dump for chemical waste in distant, post-industrial Chester, Delaware County.
But Union’s first game was at Lincoln Financial Field, which has since staged numerous showcase soccer fixtures, recently involving Arsenal, Liverpool, Newcastle and Aston Villa, as well as co-hosting the 2003 Women’s World Cup and 2025 Club World Cup.
Located in what is now called the South Philadelphia Sports Complex, an easy hop by the city’s SEPTA Metro, this is where Philly’s four main sports teams play, the quartet the lifeblood of the city and integral to its identity.
But soccer has its own local history. Nearby Bethlehem Steel won four of the first six U.S. Open Cups during World War I, while Soccer Hall of Famer, locally born Walter Bahr, was playing at Philadelphia Nationals when he appeared at the 1950 World Cup. It was Bahr’s long shot that Joe Gaetjens deflected to score the single goal to beat England, 1-0.
And then there was Philadelphia Atoms, fielding several local players, whose winning run to the NASL title in 1973 was followed by passionate fans at Veterans Field. Three years later at JFK Stadium, Pelé, Bobby Moore and former Atoms goalkeeper Bob Rigby starred for Team America against England in the Bicentennial Cup tournament.
Philly’s Fan Festival runs for all 39 days at Lemon Hill in Fairmount Park.
Getting here
Arriving in town and city transport
Philadelphia International Airport is seven miles (11km) southwest of Center City, each terminal connected by SEPTA Regional Rail Airport Line to Gray 30th St Station and Suburban Station ($11 on board, $8.75 contactless or with a SEPTA Key card ($4.95) every 30mins, 20-25mins journey time). Each subsequent ride with SEPTA Metro, bus or other transportation is $2.90, including two transfers, valid for up to 2hrs.
The stadium is by NRG Station on the Broad Street Subway Line B, 15mins direct from 15th St/City Hall. Fares stay the same during the World Cup – in fact, the return journey will be free for 2hrs after each game.
Parking spots 5-10min walk from the stadium start at $125, through Just Park. Gray 30th St Station is Philadelphia’s main rail hub, with direct Amtrak trains from New York Penn Station (one-way approx $50, journey time 1hr 30mins).
Philadelphia Taxi Cab Service (+1 215-535-6700) has a $28.50 flat fee from the airport to central Philadelphia.
Where to Drink
The best pubs and bars for football fans
Bars with special permits may operate until 4am during the World Cup. On South Street, Founding Fathers celebrates sports in Philadelphia, but doubles up as a gathering place for Spurs fans, the Tottenham the house lager. Yards Pale Ale and Evil Genius Hair of the Dog, both brewed a couple of miles away, also feature. Early weekend opening during the Premier League season.
In Chinatown, Bar-Ly shows sport from 33 screens beneath bright lanterns, with Asian fare on the menu and an absurd number of tap beers from independent breweries. Happy hour 3pm-6pm is a meal deal on non-game days.
Alongside, Lion Sports Bar screens every Premier League game and should be the place for watch parties during the World Cup, facilitated by 35 TVs, sound-on transmissions and happy hour (4pm-6pm) for food, cocktails and draft beers. Opening hours are stretched early for World Cup games and the Premier League in season.
On Drury Street, Philadelphia’s oldest pub in continual operation, having thrown open its doors the year Lincoln was elected president, McGillin’s screens Philly’s favourite sports teams, offering 30 beers on draft and daily specials. No reservations – just rock up, find a seat and order a drink.
A classic American sports bar/restaurant by Rittenhouse Square, Cavanaugh’s invites you to pull up a bar stool facing a screen, order up its house burger with sugar-cured bacon and Warsteiner Pilsner and tune in to a Union game, with match tickets offered all season. Cav’s Rittenhouse is screening all World Cup games – look out for weekday happy hour, 5pm-7pm, with deals on food and drink.
Soon to celebrate 30 years of pouring pints for soccer fans near Spring Garden Station in the Northern Liberties quarter, The 700 refers its address in a corner building, filled with revelry until 2am, either match-watching or dancing as DJs spin. Drinks specials and happy hours scheduled for each day of the World Cup, plus promotional giveaways. Stand-up comedy also essential to the equation.
